Coach debuted its Spring 2025 collection with a runway show on the Spur of New York City’s High Line, an elevated park adjacent to the brand’s global headquarters. The latest iteration of Creative Director Stuart Vevers’ vision of American classics, as reinterpreted by the new generation, emphasised the appeal of personality and self-expression, offering a fresh interpretation of what “luxury” can truly mean.
Continuing Vevers’ exploration of archetypal pieces through the lens of today’s youth, Spring 2025 blended elements of classical tailoring and couture-inspired cocktail dresses with more casual pieces drawn from the counter-cultural vocabulary of skate, heavy metal, and new wave. American sportswear icons such as navy blazers, chinos, and pinstripe suits were tweaked and exaggerated to create unexpected fits and proportions, while ’60s-inspired dresses in candy-coloured palettes were modernised with very short, dropped hems. The art of “re-loving,” or reimagining the end-of-life for garments already in circulation, also featured prominently on the runway. Denim trousers, moto skirts, and aviator jackets were crafted from post-consumer garments, artfully repurposed to create something new—a celebration of the house’s rich legacy of craft and the inherent charm of pieces with history. Vevers expands on Coach’s popular (Re)Loved programme, which restores and resells vintage Coach pieces through craft and customisation.
Graphic T-shirts with playful interpretations of New York pop and rock ‘n’ roll iconography were layered under distressed moto jackets and paired with stovepipe denim trousers, while another selection of white T-shirts were embroidered and embellished with hand-crafted words and phrases, evoking both 1940s souvenir garments and a DIY punk aesthetic. The collection also evolved key concepts from the past two seasons, including new interpretations of the cardigan jacket in upcycled leather and suede, and fresh takes on tuxedo jackets and pyjama-style trousers, this time creased and faded for added character.
In leather goods, the Spring 2025 collection marked the debut of the Chain Tabby 26, a new interpretation of Coach’s iconic Tabby bag. Crafted from soft-grain leather and available in a range of colours, the new bag features a metallic chain strap with details inspired by leatherwork. The collection also featured new variations of Winter’s Frame bag, including top-handle versions in exaggerated sizes, a menswear-inspired portfolio shape, an oversized backpack, and several silhouettes that applied Coach’s iconic Frame hardware, first designed by Bonnie Cashin in the 1960s, to Vevers’ popular family of Shape bags, available in heart, star, and dinosaur forms.
The presentation also introduced Coach’s new Soho Sneaker. Inspired by the cross-training shoes of the late ’80s and early ’90s, the sneaker references these classic styles while remaining iconic in its own right. The Soho was distressed specifically for the runway collection and adorned with stickers, along with resin charms depicting taxi cabs, cassette tapes, and other nostalgic symbols. Featuring an upper crafted from regenerative leather, this latest style underscores the house’s commitment to expanding its sustainability vision across multiple categories on the runway.
“My vision for Spring was to show real clothes in a real, relevant, urban environment,” said Vevers. “But we’re redesigning these clothes with the values of a new generation in mind, one that’s discovering these pieces for the first time.”
“So much of this collection comes down to personality,” Vevers continued. “We’ve taken very archetypal pieces and made them unique to the wearer, through the proportions, the styling, and the playful embellishments, challenging the traditional idea of ‘luxury.’ I believe what’s more valuable today is something personal.”
Inspired by the energy of New York City, where different people and styles mix and merge, the runway show was held on the High Line’s Spur, an elevated park in the heart of the city. Guests at the event experienced the latest collection within the context of the environment that inspired it. The show content echoed the presentation’s urban theme and setting, featuring dynamic views of the High Line and surrounding streets, along with a series of moving portraits with hand-drawn elements. Special guests included stars from Coach’s new “Unlock Your Courage” campaign, such as Nazha, Youngji Lee, Charles Melton, Storm Reid, and Jayson Tatum.
